Yesterday marked the start of the Dominica Health & Wellness program featuring Bajan blogger Taymer Mason, author of Caribbean Vegan! The program looks quite inspiring and it’s lovely to see the support that the event has gotten If you’re able to attend do let me know how it was!

With our stomachs full we decided to explore the right hand side of the Fair before leaving. This area was designated to traders and vendors of handiwork, clothing, and health items. Everything looked wonderful and I wished I had walked with more money. Some even took Mastercard/Visa, but alas I had walked solely with camera and cash in hand.

Next was the National Archives exhibition on Slavery in Trinidad. This really was magnificently done.

Opening with enlargements of classified ads for slaves, it left all silent in its wake.

It is still hard for me to imagine a time when one could just head to a newspaper looking to buy

people

…

Overcome with emotion, it was a no-brainer to then head over to the head booth of the day’s organizers and make a donation before heading to the car.

We reached home not a moment to soon. The sky had turned black prematurely as train, thunder and lightning all competed at full force. Glad to be safe and dry I toasted some of my newly purchased Cassava Bake. Devoured with just a smattering of butter and hot cocoa, it was the perfect ending to an extremely damp but emotionally rewarding day.

Closing Thoughts:

All in all I would give the African Food Fair a solid B. This may surprise some who may think that my overall feelings were negative. Nothing could be further from the truth. I am well aware that the Emancipation Support Committee is a non-profit organization and that volunteers are a large part of the force that makes these events a reality. As a result all of my expectations are ultimately framed and qualified by that reality.

My main concerns as I mentioned in the first installment of this series were

1) How prohibitive would costs be on-site due to free admission?

2) How African would the offerings be?

On the former I was pleasantly surprised. Although I ‘only’ walked with a $100 TT I was able to enjoy almost everything that I wanted to. Got myself a full lunch, snack, sweets and treats, and my take-home bake. Had I had more on me I know that I would have bought more. So in that sense I definitely feel that the value of the event far superseded the investment made on my part

On the second concern, that was more of a mixed bag. I would have liked to have seen more Continental African fare however, as with everything in life, that requires interested individuals who could fulfill this desire. For all I know the Emancipation Support Committee did try to contact or enroll people who had the necessary experience/expertise, and for any number of reasons they didn’t come through. As a result I do not judge the final mix of offerings too harshly. And, as previously mentioned the kentumere was a fabulous discovery that my palate is still extremely thankful for!

I am definitely curious about what the event will hold next year and hope that the weather will be a -lot- better! My hopes for that one will be:

• More Continental African food
• More personable vendors (I know this is next to impossible to enforce/screen but seriously it was a turn off)
• More plate options
• More unified food/seating arrangement
• More DJ Braithwaite (he’s a musical gem!)

See you in 2011!

After passing through the entrance it was time to head straight to the food court. Food was served in 2 main areas, one officially designated “Food Court” where most of the vendors were still absent or trying to keep dry beneath white tarpaulin, and the area shown above, which was close to the DJ Sound System and seemed to be operating primarily under the auspices of TTABA (the Trinidad & Tobago AgriBusiness Association).

Locals would be familiar with TTABA as a local packager of coconut water, as well as frozen cassava and sweet potato items. I myself am a huge fan of their products as the quality and value for money is always consistent.

On this day they were selling Cassava Bake, Cassava Fries (frozen as well as freshly fried on the spot), and Coconut Water.

It was much too chilly to think about cold Coconut Water, but I promptly shelled out some cash for a bag of Cassava Bake. I was also quite taken by the description of the Ghana plate so I purchased one of those as well.

Bene balls, Toolum, Pone, Guava Cake

Plate in hand, J and I made our way to a covered table. Although I was happy with the quantity of food that I received my response to each of the items varied rather widely. Let’s take the items clockwise from the top.

Fried Chicken – These pieces were for J as I was keeping it vegetarian that day. I eagerly awaited his verdict, which turned out to be a shrug and “is normal fried chicken”. Really? No peanut flavour? “Nope” … Gotta tell you that crushed me. Ever since making my African-inspired Savoury Peanut Chicken I have been in love with the combination of peanut and chicken and was quite disappointed that an African Food Fair was serving chicken that wasn’t any different from the fried chicken that a Trinidadian can pick up literally 24 hours a day, 7 days a week from any fast food outlet. Having had a Ghanian family friend who had made him and his family peanut chicken when he was growing up, J was also underwhelmed.

Jollof Rice – I am no expert on Jollof Rice but my mother has raved about it to me through the years, so I’m guessing this rice left something out as it was rather forgettable.

Kelewele - I was extremely excited to see this on the menu. Ever since it was brought to my attention by a Trinigourmet Facebook Fan, kelewele has become part of my culinary repertoire. What I love about it is the mix of spices (especially ginger) that infuse the fried plaintain flesh. I’ll be posting the recipe that I use next week, but until then let’s just say that this Kelewele did not have any discernible seasonings and seemed to be standard Trini fried plantain – not a bad thing as I love fried plantain in any form, but still a bit of a let down in terms of looking for that ‘foreign twist’.

Spinach With Fish – When the lady serving out the food told me that the fish involved was smoked herring I told her to just put a spoonful. I’ve pretty much hated herring all my life, but still wanted to give this unusual looking preparation a try.

Can I just say HOW GOOD THIS WAS?!

I wanted a whole bowl full. The creaminess of the spinach seemed to form the perfect neutral balance to the innate saltiness of the fish, and muted the intensity of the herring as well. The whole effect was like that of a creamy. mild buljol. This taste alone redeemed the plate and stayed in my memory for several days. Determined to recreate it at home I did some online research and found that the actual name of this dish appears to be Kentumere (if I am wrong however, do correct me ). It was discoveries like this one that I had showed up, hoping to find!

Cassava – This was just a plain piece of Cassava. Nothing added. Hmm…

Mauby – Definitely homemade, it leaned towards the bitter, but with enough sugar to remain enjoyable

After licking down the Ghana plate I skipped the table of local sweets for some hot Cassava Fries. The TTABA representatives were very enthusiastic about promoting this product which is now available in supermarket freezer aisles. An interesting point that they made is that when you are frying cassava don’t wait for the golden turn in color that you get from potato. Indeed, in doing so, the cassava is prone to explosion due to overheating. Oh my!

Cassava (also known as manioc, yuca, and tapioca) is a starchy root vegetable, like potato, with a much milder, sweet flavour. As a result fries like these definitely can take some aggressive salting when coming out the oil. As the above video also shows, I took mine with ketchup and BBQ sauce. Yum!

Sitting at a shared cover table, the pelting rain and chilly winds at my back struck a strange contrast to the warm convivality of all I had encountered so far, the hot comforting fries that I was enjoying and the upbeat African diaspora music that one Mr. Braithwaite in the DJ Booth kept in hot rotation.

Quick, someone give this man a radio license!

August 1st was Emancipation Day here in Trinidad & Tobago. A public holiday since 1985 its definition has recently been expanded as a recognition of the struggles of all the ethnic groups who came here in servitude. At its heart though it remains essentially a time of remembrance of the African Slavery Experience.

For several years now the Emancipation Support Committee has organized a series of week-long activities. This amalgamation of workshops, performances and trading normally concludes on the holiday itself, however as this year the holiday fell on a Sunday, the Fair ended the following day as Monday was also declared a public holiday. (Move to Trinidad and you’ll quickly realize that Public Holidays are serious business here!)

Free to the public, at the Hasely Crawford National Stadium, I had been building up curiousity and cautious excitement for the African Food Fair which was being conducted on the final day. The diverse cuisines of the African Continent have traditionally gotten short shrift on cooking shelves and general public awareness is still quite low. With the media often focused on stories of disease, starvation and political violence I have unfortunately realized that many people don’t think that Africa and cuisine are words that can, and should, go together. I hoped that the African Food Fair would help to champion various dishes that I had encountered in the past and promote them to a wider public.

My main concerns going in were:

1. Free Admission – Free admission always makes me antsy as I am never quite sure how much money to walk with. And I always wonder what the prices of items will be and if./how I can sample everything. Simple solution? Walk with how much an all-inclusive ticket would have cost and ration accordingly.

2. How African was African going to be? - My hope was that I would get to sample fare from various regions of the Continent. Even better if it would be from nationals of those countries (many of whom are here on diplomatic missions etc.). Would they and their countries be represented?

I’ll answer how I think these concerns were addressed at the end of this series

Sculpture at Hasely Crawford National Stadium by Pat Chu Foon (1931-1998). Commissioned for 5th World Netball Series.

Unfortunately, the elements conspired from early on to make sure that attendance would be far from optimal. Steady rains from the morning hours into the evening, alternated between torrential to a light drizzle with the sun never making an appearance.

I was unaware of it at the time, but by that evening some regions of Trinidad would be under 6 to 10 feet of water, experiencing the heaviest destruction that has been seen in years (and is still continuing unfortunately due to sustained storms).

Tomorrow Part 2: Cassava Fries & Kelewele

For the past few days I’ve been reviewing the recently held Sauté Trinbago food event. If you’ve been following along I hope you have enjoyed the photos and videos that I’ve shared. If you’ve missed any of the posts to date you can quickly catch up by clicking the series navigation bar above this post, or if you are reading this via RSS I have included a handy link box at the bottom of this one as well

Overall I thought that Cloud Nine Promotions, the organizers of the event did an amazing job, I also thought however that there were some areas for improvement. I will outline both (as I see them) below.

Pros:

• Truly all-inclusive - once you entered the gates everything was truly covered by the cost of your ticket. Even with my Taste T&T Gourmet ticket there were ‘premium booths’ that charged additional fees. So this was greatly appreciated.
• Safe and secure surroundings, steady visual police presence – it’s not often that I feel truly relaxed at public gatherings, and in this case I definitely did. All must be praised for their vigilance, especially with that much free alcohol on tap!
• Cleanliness was maintained – garbage bags and receptacles were prominent throughout the layout. They also seemed to be replaced at intervals as I never saw any overflow.
• Rich entertainment – As you can see from the photos from the start of the festival to the end, there was never of shortage of locally derived sights and sounds. Kudos!
• ‘Street food’ was extremely well represented – one of the criticisms of Taste T&T was that there were too many gourmet options. Alhough I am a huge fan of gourmet (hey it’s in my name!), as these menus were only available at a prepaid price, it was a valid criticism. The person walking in with $50TT in their pocket was unable to enjoy any local offerings, whether it be doubles, aloo pie, sugar cake, whatnot. This was definitely -not- the case at Sauté Trinbago. Even better, they made no geographic division between the offerings of local vendors and that of local restaurants. Unlike Taste T&T which did create separate areas for both.

Cons:

• Poor Promotion – Who knew about this event? How was it promoted? These were valid questions I believe as this event should and could have been better attended. I myself only learnt about it via a press release in the Trinidad Guardian some days before it was held. I was later sent by a Twitter follower, a similar release in Newsday. Although press releases are great, I’m curious what other avenues were explored. If I had not seen that issue of the Guardian I would still be unaware that there was anything called ‘Sauté Trinbago’ and I’m not the only one.

• Poor Social Media Outreach – Talking to other local food bloggers none of them knew about Sauté Trinbago. Zero. Zilch. As WizzytheStick commented:

“I drove by this event on my way to the zoo with my kids. I saw the people but did not know what it was. “

Sauté Trinbago seems to have been a bit confused as to how it position itself. It billed itself as a premium all-inclusive culinary event but seemed to prefer to promote itself via avenues like Triniscene, Scorch and Facebook. Now I for one don’t pick up Scorch (nor do I believe do many (if any) of the other local food bloggers), neither do I visit Triniscene (and I’d venture to say it’s not a regular visit on their internet trolls either). None of us are certified fete addicts or devout partygoers, we are however passionate about Trinidad culture and cuisine – which is what Sauté Trinbago said it was about. Yet, the promoters never sought to contact any of us to get the word out to our readers, other ‘foodies’. There was no genuine social media plan or campaign on their part, outside of the established party/carnival channels, which I’m not sure was the sole demographic (or best) to pursue for this event.

So what about Facebook? What’s the problem there? Well nothing. However their only presence on Facebook was a private profile which one had to ‘add as a friend’ rather than a public page. The logic behind that decision baffles me, and I hope it was more done out of ignorance than as part of some deliberate “premium” strategy. With a Facebook page they could have done so much more to share tastes of what the event was going to hold to their followers, and their followers could have in turn shared that information. More importantly, that information would have been viewable by people without Facebook accounts. I saw the YouTube video that they created (after much searching for -some- information) and wondered how it had been intended to be used.

Several people who did know about the event beforehand told me that they were not ‘sold’ on the idea so they didn’t attend. After seeing my posts they now regretted not attending. I myself was not sold, and only went because I thought if nothing else, it would provide some new content for this site. The ticket purchase was a leap of faith more than anything else.

A golden opportunity was lost then to get the word out, to let people know what they would get, and to reach out to people who are already ‘sold’ on what they were promoting. Better job next year!

• Lack of Vegetarian Options – we always like to boast about our diverse multicultural population. Part of that diversity means that there is a relatively large percentage of people who don’t eat meat for health, ethical, or religious reasons. Even many people who do meat, for religious reasons will choose vegetarian or fish if they can’t certify the meat’s origin. Of course no one can attend to every variation in dietary observance, which is why I recommend vegetarian options as a way to cover everyone in one sweep. It would be great if every stall at events such as these had a vegetarian option (like Benihana did). Even if they only supplied 1/2 the amount and ran out quickly, at least the option was there!

• Lack of Vendor branding – The branding of stalls at Sauté Trinbago was puzzling to say the least. Restaurants clearly displayed their names, and then you had stalls called “Roti”. Huh? I personally would have loved to have known who was providing these foods, where they were located, and how to reach them after the event. In the haste of the moment it was not always opportune to get all this information from the food workers, however some co-branding and take away literature would have been nice. I’ve already mentioned Hanif & Sons Doubles several times in this series because they were -that good- however I have no idea their location and if I knew more I would definitely share.

One such generic stall “Crab & Dumpling” – decided for themselves to hang up a sign letting you know that they were “Maggie’s Catering” and how to contact them . Which just goes to show, that vendors have a responsibility as well to make sure that they get the most out of these events, regardless of what the promoters provide.

• Taste T&T’s gourmet ticket option was a big draw like it or not. I’m not sure how Sauté wants to blend the two worlds of local culinary presentation moving forward but I think that the option of ‘finer dining’, especially with the all-inclusive presentation (maybe as an add-on?) would be well-received. Again, I think a confusion was made between the local foodie/restaurant crowd and the fete-centric crowd. Of course there is going to be overlap but there are huge segments of both who remain rather separate. And for $400TT our expectations of what/who we want to see to attend will be rather different. A food event with live entertainment is not the same thing as a fete with food.

So there it is. If I had to give them a grade it would still be a solid A. The pros far outweighed the cons once one was at the actual event. The majority of the cons had to do with why I think more people were not there. I hope that this series continues to be read and that next time more people will be inclined to give it a chance.

ETA August 3rd, 2010: After this post was originally published Dawn wrote in to say the following:
“Dear Trini Gourment:

Thanks for this info on Saute Trinbago. I agree with you on the promotion aspects. There are many Trinis around the world who would actually schedule visits around such a great event if only we knew long enough in advance. A good but different example is Reggae Fest Jamaica which occurs annually and people plan a year in advance to attend. All Trinis like to eat Trinbago food though so we would love to hear about eating events. “

Dawn I definitely hope that I start to receive advance notice of such events so that I can spread the word to you and all others around the world with an interest and passion for Trini cuisine and culture!

Here’s to Sauté Trinbago 2011!

Sauté Trinbago Link Roundup

• Sauté Trinbago is Today! (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 1 – Arrival (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 2 – Blue Devils & Moko Jumbies (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 3 – Picton Folk Performing Company (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 4 – The Evening’s Entertainment (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 5 – Oasis Carnival Band Launch 2011 (video)
• Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 6 – Shurwayne Winchester (video)

View my full Sauté Trinbago 2011 playlist (21 videos)

Last to the stage was soca artiste Shurwayne Winchester. I was blown away by his set, which felt more like a mixtape on steroids. Seamless and flawless, he and his band (Y.O.U) combined elements of hiphop, his own soca hits (and those of others), and also wisely drew kaiso classics into the tapestry, creating a beautiful showcase of local music that also embraced the world beyond.

By this time my memory card was almost full, and I was cursing myself for not carrying along a third. Never had I anticipated though that there would have been so much to see! As I result, the below was all I have to share of his performance. However, if you talk to anyone who was there, I’m sure they’ll share my view

Completely in his element, Winchester was relaxed and confident. He had the crowd responding to his every command and clearly loved it. His live show has really evolved, as has his visual style. Kudos to the preppy attire!

As the last chords rang out, I knew my back and feet would kill me in the morning (Trinigourmet is getting old y’all!), but it was soo worth it. Not only Shurwayne’s set, but the whole Sauté Trinbago experience itself. Were there things I’d like to see handled differently next time around, of course. But more time for that in my roundup post. Until then, praise is given where it is deserved and praise is definitely deserved. Cloud Nine Promotions delivered an exceptional experience, that was safe, secure, clean, and just a joy from start to finish.

At this point, there was nothing left to do but go home, smiling all the way

Next: Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 7 – Closing Thoughts

The next thing on the evening’s agenda was the launch of a new Carnival band Oasis. From the opening notes of Shakira’s “Ojos Asi” I was drawn in…

All in all I think that Oasis did an exceptional job presenting their inaugural face to the world.

By the end of that showing I was ready to pay down my deposit! (then I remembered I have bills and other things to save up for)

The only thing left now was the grand finale!

Tomorrow: Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 6 – Shurwayne Winchester

After the magnificence of the Picton Folk Performing Company’s offering, I could be forgiven for thinking that I could take a little time out between performances. The organisers however clearly had different plans. It was not long before the notes of Shakira’s “Waka Waka” started to play as the MC announced that the bMobile Shiv Shakti dancers were taking the stage.

The Shiv Shakti dancers have been a fixture in local cultural performances for as long as I can remember and I always love the energy and joy that they convey. If you are unfamiliar with them, do check out their most famous appearance in Chris Garcia’s “Chutney Bacchanal” video. It doesn’t hurt that with their immaculate makeup, bling and hairstyles they always looked especially divalicious and glamorous to me as a child. Unfortunately I was unable to capture the first minute or so of their performance, which had more classical Indian dance elements. I had hoped that they would perform several songs, but alas it was not to be. This was it. Hopefully you can still feel the vibe

Following Shiv Shakti was the Alternative Quartet. I last saw them at Taste T&T 2008. Although their lead female violinist viola player appears to have changed, they still had the same dynamic visual presence and unconventional approach to material (a symphonic ‘Palance’ was part of their repertoire). Unfortunately, I did not record their performance, but you can get a taste of their style in my video of their Taste T&T outing.

I did however manage to capture these images…

After their performance the announcer stated that coming up next would be the much anticipated launching of Oasis, a new Carnival band. Dil-E-Nadan had been billed as one of the night’s performances, but I guess that was not to be. Taking that moment as my chance to finally fill up on the local sweets which I had not wanted to rush to before sampling ‘actual food’, I headed back to the food stalls. Apparently every one of the attendees had gotten there before me! Aiaiai, that will teach me next time. They had had plenty tamarind balls, sugar cake and red mango too!!

Many of the stalls at this point were closing, and the ones that weren’t were doing brisk transactions as many patrons it seemed were now ready to ‘chow down’ (after filling up on sweets it appears )

I had fully intended to head home at this point, however I was having such a great time that I kept wondering what was next. Besides, I really wanted to see Shurwayne Winchester, who it appeared they were saving for last. After my umpteenth Shandy, I figured hey why not stick around and take in ‘d beads and feathers’. I’m glad I did …

Tomorrow: Sauté Trinbago 2010: Part 5 – Oasis Carnival Band Launch 2011

Prior to last Saturday’s performance I was completely unaware of the existence of the Picton Folk Performing Company. As a result, I feel really grateful to Cloud Nine, the organisers of Sauté Trinbago, for the exceptional level of talent which they allowed to shine from the event’s start to its end.

Opening with a young charismatic performer, I could barely believe the level of sheer talent which was on display for what felt like almost an hour. The non-stop flow of the performances, the intricate choreography and the sheer dedication and discipline that was clearly upheld by all involved was nothing short of inspiring. In the clip below they do an amazing limbo presentation. Like the steelpan, the limbo is an indigenous creation of Trinidad.

From Wikipedia:
“Consistent with certain African beliefs, the dance reflects the whole cycle of life”. “The dancers move under a pole that is gradually lowered from chest level, and they emerge on the other side, as their heads clear the pole, as in the triumph of life over death”. This dance is also used as a funeral dance and may be related to the African legba or legua dance.

Later that night I decided to learn more about who they were online. From an extremely moving profile on TriniView.com, it became evident that this company not only makes a huge contribution to the local cultural landscape, it’s also an immensely emotional and physical respite for the young people who comprise its majority. At the time of the article (2009) they were looking for a permanent premises to use as a rehearsal space. I certainly hope that they found it, and I hope that the public and private sectors become more aware for grassroot ventures such as these to be supported and funded.

Some key excerpts:

“We are dealing with young people from the age of three to nineteen. They are young people who need to be motivated and inspired. They are also willing young people who are educated and talented in all aspects you can think about. We even have members of the group here who are at the age of eighteen and nineteen teaching music in South East. We have Panmen and young dancers who go out and represent us in talent shows and come back with good results.

The group has members who are tutoring young people in the afternoons for their exams and who are really illiterate in certain areas. We try to help them in every area we can afford to.”

- Carlos Griffith, PRO and dance choreographer of the Picton Folk Performing Company

“I have been a member of the Picton Folk Performing Company for four years now. This group has been like a family to me and they have helped me to go further in my dancing. My blood family didn’t approve of me being here. When I came into this group they started to treat me differently and sometimes this group makes me feel like they are my only family because I cannot depend on them at home. Right now, I am going up for CXC Exams and a little boy is going up for Common Entrance this year. I needed some tutoring so Mr. Stephen Singh, a member of the group is giving us classes on evenings. The kind of things this group has done for me, my aunts and them back home have never done.”

- Afisia Charles

Read the full article: Picton Folk Performing Company Pleas for help here

The community which these performers are from, Laventille, is one which is oft maligned and dismissed by the populace at large. Moments like the ones I saw remind all of us that talent and ideals know no geographic boundary, and nurturing and respect are environments which all of our citizens have a right to expect and demand!

With night time fully upon us I decided to revisit Hanif & Sons for a proper doubles. My appetite was so whetted by that amazing aloo pie that I couldn’t wait to sample what their actual doubles was like (divine!). Doubles and another Gatorade in hand (oh how I was loving this all-inclusive deal), J and I found a bench away from much of the activity and looked on.

A Flavorite man moved through the crowd giving away lollies. It would have been great if there had been a sno-cone man as well (my real Achilles heel), but a Flavorite lolly would definitely fit the bill. At that point the sound system dipped once again, signifying that it was time for another act to take the stage…

Tomorrow: Sauté Trinbago: Part 4 – The Evening’s Entertainment Continues…

Like moko jumbies, blue devils are mainstays of traditional Trinidadian Carnival (or ‘ole mas’ as it’s commonly called). A form of Devil Mas/Jab Molassie/Jab-Jab, blue devils are mostly associated with the Maraval hills of Paramin and have also been immortalised in song by 3 Canal with their classic track (and video) Blue.

Terrifying to the uninitiated eye, these maniacal characters have always filled with me awe. Famous for harassing and cajoling bystanders into handing over monies (‘pay de devil’) the more one observes them the more one begins to see the twinkle in the eye, the enthusiasm of portrayal, and the rhythmic harmony which they never step out of with their ‘impish’ rhythm sections always in tow. However, don’t let down your guard! In keeping with their name, they can also go from playful to threatening in the blink of an eye.

From the National Library Information Service:

JAB MOLASSIE

Jab is the French patois for ‘Diable’ (Devil), and Molassie is the French patois for Mélasse (Molasses). The Jab Molassie is one of several varieties of devil mas played in Trinidad and Tobago carnival. The costume consists of short pants or pants cut off at the knee, and a mask and horns. The jab malassie would carry chains, and wear locks and keys around his waist, and carry a pitch fork. He may smear his body with grease, tar, mud or coloured dyes (red, green or blue). The jab molassie “wines” or gyrates to a rhythmic beat that is played on tins or pans by his imps. While some of his imps supply the music, others hold his chain, seemingly restraining him as he pulls against them in his wild dance.

The differences among the various forms of devil mas were once distinct, but have become blurred over time.

While the devils cajoled, the jumbies danced.

I wondered, as I watched, if they came from the well-known Dragon Keylemanjahro School of Arts, which was also the subject of the book ‘Moko Jumbies’. They were so young!

From Wikipedia:

While the god Moko is from the Kongo (or Congo) and Nigeria, from the Nuapa people, Trinidad has added their own touch to him. Moko, in the traditional sense, is a god. He watches over his village, and due to his towering height, he is able to foresee danger and evil. His name, Moko, literally means the “diviner” and he would be represented by men on towering stilts and performs acts that were unexplainable to the human eye. In one remote tribe, the Moko rises from a regular mans’ height to the skies fluidly with no help and descends similarly to leave others to wonder how he performed such an act.

The Moko arrived in Trinidad by “walking all the way across the Atlantic Ocean from the West coast of Africa, laden with many, many centuries of experience, and, in spite of all inhuman attacks and encounters, yet still walks tall, tall, tall. (John Cupid, Caribbean Beat)” The idea of the Moko survived by living in the hearts of African descendants during slavery and colonial life to eventually walk the streets of Trinidad in a celebration of freedom, Carnival. While this figure was rooted in African heritage, Trinidad adapted the figure, notably by adding on Jumbie or ghost to the name. The by the early 1900’s Moko Jumbies had become an element of Trinidad’s Carnival. This figure would walk the streets of Port of Spain and other cities protecting the city and revelers from evil. As part of his role in Carnival the Moko Jumbie would accept donations from onlookers in upper floors of buildings.

I always get a strong sense of peace and joy when in the presence of moko jumbies, maybe I can now attribute that to a subconscious recognition of their traditional role as protectors

More stands were beginning to open at this point but unfortunately (for me) most did not offer vegetarian fare. It continues to amaze me how little consideration food establishments give those who veer away from meat-based diets (whether for ethical, health or religious purposes). Although I am not a full-time vegetarian, like many people who follow various religious prohibitions, a vegetarian/fish diet is usually the most practical one for me to follow when dining outside of the home.

Indeed, one of the things that intrigued me in the promotions for Sauté Trinbago was the offering of a vegetarian pelau. However, when I approached that stand they stated that they were only offering chicken

Fortunately Hanif & Sons Doubles came to the rescue. Although they stated that they wouldn’t be serving doubles until after 6p.m., they were happy to hand out aloo pies, slit and filled with one of the best channa (chickpea) fillings I’ve -ever- tasted. That thing was heaven! Walking back to my bench, I grabbed an ice-cold Gatorade. Perfect for staving off the now steamy Sunday heat.

J opted for a beef roti from a stand called, cryptically enough ‘roti;. He said it too was wonderful, but unfortunately I was not able to partake at that time.

As we sat and ate, we watched the slowly growing crowd. There was a calm lull in the music and the crowd. Even the devils and jumbies seemed to use this time to recoup and recalibrate.

But, I didn’t want to rest! Growing uncomfortably curious about the steady group of people assembled in front of the Grey Goose Vodka stand I ventured closer.

Daiquiris were on call! I immediately put in my request for two! (1 raspberry, and 1 pina colada if you please) MMM…

Above me, at the bar, the rhythm section continued going, even as the devils rested. These guys were unwavering and really stayed in good spirits the whole time. Once they realized I was photographing them they started actively hailing me out, and hamming it up. Too funny

Although she remained silent throughout the festivities, one of the day’s real stars was the Queen Royal College main building. Newly renovated, she was nothing less than stunning and regal. A fitting backdrop for everything that went on.

As the sun continued its slow descent the blue devils took advantage of the fading light to begin their traditional fire-breathing show.

This fella had one of the most expressive portrayals I’d ever seen. I simply loved looking at him!

Eventually however I had to pull away. Especially as I started to hear drumming coming from the main stage. A voice stated over the loudspeakers that the Picton Folk Group was about to begin. Curiousity, more than anything else, drew me forward. Little did I know that I was in for an extremely magical performance…

Tomorrow: Sauté Trinbago Part 3 – The Picton Folk Performing Company